Day trips from Rome: Orvieto


If you want to experience small town life in Italy that’s a quick and easy distance from Rome without needing to rent a car – I highly recommend visiting the medieval hill town of Orvieto. Orvieto is easily reachable by train from Rome’s Termini train station and depending on the train takes 50 minutes to an hour & twenty minutes to reach.

Orvieto sits up on a rock which when coming from Rome you can’t really see from the train.  As you exit the station at Orvieto, cross the piazza and take the funicular up into town.  The original funicular started running in 1888 and used a water powered system.  The ride up is a smooth and effortless 2 minute climb up the side of the rock past people’s homes, olive groves and vineyards.

Exiting the funicular station, you can walk up Corso Cavour one of the main streets located directly in front you and be in the town’s center in about 10 minutes.  Or you can jump on the A bus that takes you to the front of the Duomo – Orvieto’s cathedral –  in less than 5 minutes.


Many Romans come to Orvieto on the weekend to stroll around the town and have a nice lunch.  Orvieto is in the region of Umbria and has loads of great restaurants serving local, regional cuisine.  Cinghiale (wild boar), truffles, umbrichelli (a thick spaghetti-type pasta made with flour & water) and the Orvieto Classic – a dry white wine, are typical specialties of the area.  Our family’s favorite is Trattoria del Moro-Aronne.  This family owned and run restaurant is very popular in the guidebooks so usually crowded with visitors, but they have not lost their integrity as some places that get popular do – their food is great.  When eggplant is in season go for the polpette di melanzane (eggplant patties)  and their roasted potatoes.  Their nidi di rondine with pecorino and honey is a cheese-lovers delight (warning – sweet & rich, but oh so good) and they make a fantastic porcini mushroom/truffle pasta dish. The owners, Cristian and his mother Rolanda are super nice and friendly.  Bistrotters is owned and run by Emiliano & Ilaria who took over a long-standing restaurant that had seen better days and transformed it into this stylish yet casual spot.  The staff are super friendly and they have a large outdoor dining area with good pizzas, pastas and great wine.  Trattoria del Orso is the two-man operation of Ciro and Gabriele. Ciro will explain the day’s dishes and Gabriele cooks in the kitchen.  I particularly like their pasta dish with mushroom and truffles and they have some excellent meat dishes (I’m told.  Being vegetarian, I have to trust the meat-eaters I know).  After your meal, ask Ciro for his latest digestivo.  They make their own liqueurs out of natural ingredients such as bay leaf and other plants.

If you’re looking for a place to have a coffee try FEBO, Via G. Michelangeli a cute bar in town on the oh so quiet and quaint Michelangeli street.  If you want outdoor eating and people watching,  Caffe Cavour or Barrique are the place to be both located on Orvieto’s main street, Corso Cavour.
Gelato - Pasqualetti is the oldest and main ice cream vendor in town and very good.  They have two locations – via del Duomo, 10 and Piazza del Duomo, 14 (here there is outdoor seating located off to the side of the Duomo)


- the Duomo – €3 entrance fee
- Underground Orvieto tour - tickets bought at ticket office next to Tourist Information located in front of the duomo, tour departs every day at 11, 12:15, 16:00 and 17:15.
- Torre del Moro – €2.60 entrance fee, you can take an elevator to the 2nd floor, but then have to walk the rest of the way 200 or so steps up – so not recommended for people with heart conditions.  Great panoramic views of the entire town and its medieval layout as well as the surrounding countryside.  Be careful of your ears though as the clock sounds every quarter past the hour.
- Pozzo della Cava vs Pozzo di San Patrizio – these are two underground well systems that are heavily advertised throughout Orvieto – Pozzo di San Patrizio is the most interesting from a historical, engineering and architectural perspective – it’s located right near the funicular station.
Museo dell Opera del Duomo – Chiesa di Sant’Agostino, Piazza San Giovenale – This place is definitely off the beaten path in Orvieto and it’s a definite must-see.  It’s only one large room, but it holds these slightly large than life statues of the Apostles and two huge brass bells with intricate details that used to be housed in the Duomo before they removed sometime in the 19th century.
- Churches – there are many churches in Orvieto such as Sant’ Andrea church in Piazza della Repubblica with it’s 12 sided bell tower. The oldest church in Orvieto is San Giovenale built in its original state in 1004 – recently re-opened after years of renovation it has beautiful restored frescoes and is a simpler, humbler, but not less beautiful church – from the inside, I personally like this church better than the Duomo.  Nice views of the countryside from this vantage point and very quiet in this part of town as it is off the tourist path.
- Anello della Rupe (literally means “ring of the rock”) – there is a gorgeous walking trail that runs along the volcanic rock on which the town is built on.  It takes about 1 to 1.5 hours to circumnavigate the entire town on this trail, but you can do a shorter walk.  There are 5 entrances to get onto the trail so if you get tired you can get off it at various spots.  Just a few meters down from the town and you are in nature.  There’s an Etruscan necropolis, a little church built into the rock and just a pleasant walk – some steep hills so a bit of a workout too.  I usually enter on the Palazzo Crispo entrance and walk clockwise and exit at the Porta Vivaria entrance.  There are gorgeous views of the countryside from this section of the path (including views of the 12th century Abbey of San Severo now a very nice hotel called La Badia)  Near the Porta Vivaria exit is where you’ll find the necropolis.
- evening passeggiata - cozy up to a coffee bar like Barrique (in coffee bars above) with seating outside and enjoy a glass of wine or prosecco or an aperol spritz and people watch before taking the evening stroll with all the residents of Orvieto who go up and down the 2 main drags – Corso Cavour and via dell Duomo each evening. The residents here take their evening passeggiata very seriously and everyone comes out in full force.  Only very bad weather will keep people inside.
- outdoor market at Piazza del Popolo  – Thursday and Saturday mornings – best place to get vegetables, fruit, cheese, etc. and inexpensive clothes and household goods.
- theatre performance at Teatro Mancinelli on Corso Cavour.  It’s a gorgeous little theatre built in the 1800’s.  You can stop by the theatre and see what’s taking place while you’re there – they often have posters outside and the ticket office is to the right if you are facing it.
SHOPPING:Federico Badia - leather goods – this young Roman cobbler moved to Orvieto and is continuing an artisan tradition that unfortunately is disappearing in Italy, but he’s made a success of it with his energy, enthusiasm and love for his craft.  Here you’ll find handmade and custom made shoes, handbags, wallets, belts, etc. Steve wrote a blog post and made a short video about him.

Orogami - original, unique and beautiful handmade jewelry by master jewelers Massimo and Tiziana – the nicest and friendliest couple who will happily answer any questions you might have about the items in their shop.  They have a range of pieces from simple and affordable to more intricate and expensive pieces.  They can also work on custom designs.
L’Orvietan – via del Duomo – don’t know the number, but it’s on the right side as you are going towards the Duomo – this shop has all kinds of beautifully made and well-sourced products all made in Orvieto.  The owner of the shop, Lamberto (if you see bald-headed man with a great smile and kind eyes behind the counter, that’s him) is an artisan papermaker who also has a paper workshop near the Duomo.
il Crogiolo – via dei Magoni, 7 –  beautiful handwoven scarves, hats, linens, etc.  You’ll find the owner Maria Gagliano usually working on the loom in her shop.
Ceramicarte – via dell Duomo, 42 – unusual handmade, artisan ceramics by Nadia (there is usually her dog Briciola outside).
Mastropaolo – Piazza dell Duomo, 36 – artistic handmade ceramics – both Ceramicarte above and Mastropaolo are a few of the authentically Orvietan artisans.  Many of the look-alike places on via dell Duomo are not handmade and are shipped in from southern Italy.Ceramiche Orvietane Difusari Giorgio – Corso Cavour, 431 – traditional artisan Umbrian ceramics

Dolceamaro – Corso Cavour, 78 – a chocolate shop with artisan handmade chocolates and cookies and in the winter – their excellent hot chocolate and in the summer, their gelato.

La Loggia – Corso Cavour, 129 – wine shop

Enoteca al Duomo – Corso Cavour 51 near Torre del Moro  – wine shop owned by friends of ours who also have a location at the Duomo and owners of the Bistrotters restaurant mentioned previously.

I highly recommend these two places if you decide to make Orvieto more than just a day trip.
B&B Ripa Medici and B&B Sant’ Angelo 42 



30 October 2015

Wine and olive oil tours near Rome


When you’re in the midst of the chaos of an urban city center like Rome, it’s difficult to imagine that just a few kilometers out of town you’ll find a rural idyll with green hills, rolling green pastures, olive trees, grapevines, sheep and horses.  Yet just 40 minutes by train north of Rome is a beautiful area called Sabina that easily rivals Tuscany and Umbria for its green and natural beauty.

I used to take horseback riding lessons in the Sabina area, but when I was pregnant with our third child, I was told very sternly by my midwife that horseback riding and pregnancy do not mix.  Unfortunately, I never did go back to my lessons, but recently, thanks to our friends at Convivio Rome, I have been spending time in the area again.


Our excellent hosts and tour leaders, Sally and Guido.

Convivio Rome is small tour company run by Sally Ransom and Guido Santi, an Australian-Italian couple who offer cooking tours out of their home in the small medieval town of Toffia as well as wine and olive oil tours of the surrounding Sabine countryside.  They were kind enough to invite me first on an olive oil tour last year and then a wine tour a year later this past April.



The only way to see this area is by car and Sally and Guido meet and pick you up in their own vehicle at the Fara Sabina-Montelibretti train station located 40 minutes from Rome’s Tiburtina station.  The countryside here like many parts of Italy is agricultural and there are orchards and vineyards a plenty.

The area of Sabina has been cultivating olives and making olive oil for thousands of years. In fact one of the oldest and largest olive trees in Europe, “l’Olivone” is located in this area and has been dated as being over 2,000 years old!

The olive oil from the Sabina are is one of the few olive oils to earn the DOP label (protected designation of origin) and many consider the olive oil here to be some of the finest in Italy.


Wine is equally important to the area and its cultivation started with the Etruscans in the area back in 800BC. We visited the Tenuta of Santa Lucia owned by the Colantuono family who have been wine producers in the Abruzzo region for 50 years and who bought the current vineyard in the Sabina area 10 years ago.


They are small producers, but their wine is exported as far away as the US and Japan.  The grapes they grow are Malvasia, Falanghina, Pecorino, Syrah, Merlot, Montepulciano and Sauvignon.


We spent the day following the wine-making process with Massimo, a young oenologist, who explained in depth the scientific and technical aspects of wine production.  Then we had a few tastings – a white and a red, along with some bruschetta and local oil.

Sally and Guido then took us to the nearby tiny borgo of Farfa, home of the Abbazia di Farfa (Farfa Abbey) and to Benedictine monks since the 600s.  The borgo is small and seemingly perfect with an eclectic mix of people – I’ve seen tai chi practitioners to yogis to teenagers playing football in the local park in town.


There are only a handful of shops and places to eat including a place called i 4 Monaci where Sally & Guido took us for a light snack lunch and more local wine.  This eclectic shop specializes in funky artisan products as well as many organic Italian skin care products and they sell an incredible homemade dark chocolate with hazelnut and pistachio.


The eclectic shop of i 4 Monaci.

A 3 hour tour turned into 4, but Sally and Guido were very patient and drove us to the train station afterward.  Personally it was very gratifying to see visitors to Italy getting off the tourist path and I had a wonderful time with a diverse group of people who by the end had developed a camaraderie after a fun day together.


If you have some time while in Rome, but don’t have a car, just contact Convivio Rome.  Their tours are very reasonably priced and getting out to the Sabina countryside is easy and hassle-free.  Wine and olive oil are inherent parts of Italian culture and are revered worldwide –  it’s worthwhile taking the time to learn more about them while you’re here.

16 May 2015

Rome’s Hidden Museums with Context Travel


In the center of Rome alone there are over 100 museums.  They range from the most visited (Vatican Museums ) to the oldest (Capitoline Museums ) to another that many people consider has one of the most exceptional collections of art under one roof. ( Galleria Borghese )

While these museums are definitely worthwhile to visit, the last time I visited the Vatican Museums in 1995 I was so overwhelmed by the hot, sticky crush of humanity that all these years later I’m still in shock over it and have never gone back. Granted, I should probably give it another try, but for now, I’ve got other fish to fry.


There’s something I like about those places that are off the radar and that are not so well known and less well known means less people which is a huge plus for me.  Context Travel’s tours in the public interest offers the perfect opportunity to explore those unnoticed gems in Rome and they started their season with a “Hidden Museums” series.  The series features tours of four museums that are often overlooked and yet full of important and interesting works of art, free of the masses and yet in an easily doable and digestible 1.5 hours.

Their first featured museum was the Centrale Montemartini.  “Gods & Machines” was the perfect title of the first exhibit that took place here at this former power plant turned museum space when it was restored back in the 90’s. Many ancient Roman sculptures from the Capitoline Museums found a home here.


The pieces here are beautiful and the contrast between the industrial and the classical in this art nouveau style building is striking.  There were only a handful of other visitors when we were there and yet so surprising considering what an exceptional and very unusual space it is.

The second tour was of the Museo di Roma in the Palazzo Braschi (the first photo in this post is of the grand staircase).  Palazzo Braschi looks out onto Piazza Navona and was the last papal building in Rome constructed in the late 1700’s and giving it the nickname “the last miracle of St. Peter.”  The museum is full of very detailed paintings of a Rome long since gone and it was fun trying to guess which part of Rome we were looking at before reading the title of the painting.  An unusual touch is the classical music played in the grand staircase leading up to the different floors.

Context’s next Hidden Museums tours will be of Palazzo Venezia in Piazza Venezia on 27 May and the Museum of the Middle Ages in the EUR neighborhood on 24 June.  Tours must be booked on-line and are only €5.  Tours start at 5pm and last 90 minutes.


Climbing a terracotta mountain in Rome

I lived in Panama as a child and I was a bit of a wildish creature.  I spent 6 years barefoot and most of my waking hours were spent without walls – the worst punishment I could receive from my mother was being made to stay inside for the day.  One of the highlights of our neighborhood was a hill that my friends and I dubbed “Clay Hill”.  We played on it a lot and in the rainy season that hill became a slippery, red, muddy mess, but as children do – we were oblivious and we played on despite the mud and the wet.


Unbeknownst to many, Rome has its own “clay hill”.  Monte Testaccio is not really a mountain, but a huge hill made up of the shards and fragments of amphorae dating back to the 1st century BC.  Amphorae were terracotta pots used to carry a variety of products and the ones to carry olive oil were not reusable so they were discarded after use.  These discarded pots are what formed Monte Testaccio.  Estimates of  how many amphorae were deposited on here range from 20-50 million.  I’ve always been curious about this hill and it was great to explore it recently with Katie Parla of Parla Food.

Before the walk up, Katie showed us a bit around the part of the Testaccio neighborhood just surrounding the bottom of the hill.  We stopped by Testaccio’s food market which was moved to its present location in 2011 and which is overlooked by a mural of “La Lupa” – a 20 meter tall depiction of the Capitoline She-Wolf by Belgian street artist, ROA, that was commissioned by the residents of the building.

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During the walk we observed the beginning stages of the dismantling of the Big Bambù installation by artists Mike & Doug Starn at the MACRO Testaccio which had been a beloved part of the Testaccio landscape for the past 3 years.  The MACRO Testaccio is located in what were the former city slaughterhouses.

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From the grounds of the MACRO and the Città del Altra Economia – a fair trade complex also located here – Monte Testaccio from the distance looks like an ordinary green hill. However, its uniqueness is more apparent the closer you get as you can see from this path leading up the hill.


At the top of Monte Testaccio is an iron cross.  For years, the summit served as the final stage of the Way of the Cross (Via Crucis) for the Pope during the Good Friday celebrations which now take place at the Colosseum.  Some of the views from Monte Testaccio look out into the area of early industrial Rome in the Ostiense neighborhood and the Gazometro structure that was built in the early 1900’s – now no longer in use.

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On another side of the hill Katie pointed out the birthplace of the football team, AS Roma, the pitch where the team had its first games back in 1929, abandoned in the 40’s and turned into an illegal dumping ground.  Still standing are 4 lights surrounding the pitch and some stadium seating.  You can see the top of the Pyramid of Cestius – Rome’s own pyramid –  in the background.

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As we walked back down the hill what came to mind was “where the hell else in the world could I do something like this?!?”  Rome truly never ceases to amaze me!

Katie’s next visit of Monte Testaccio will be on Rome’s 2,768th birthday on 21 April.

Be sure to visit one of my favorite restaurants in Rome, Flavio al Velavevodetto, built into Monte Testaccio. 

Pasta making for everyone!

I’ll come straight out with it – I hate to cook.  I do it when I have to, but I do it begrudgingly.  In Italy, where it is very easy to head to the local fresh pasta shop, learning how to make my own pasta has never seemed essential.   I’ve also been spoiled by great food made by my husband, Steve, who is an excellent cook. However, in one of those “you can give a man a fish or you can teach a man to fish” moments – I thought it would be a fun evening spent with friends learning how to make this classic Italian food staple.

We often get guests at The Beehive wanting to take a cooking course, but nothing too rigorous.  Walks of Italy’s pasta making course is a great option for someone wanting a short, easygoing class while still learning a delicious and handy skill.

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The course is located on the beautiful rooftop terrace apartment of Chef David Sgueglia della Marra and his wife Barbara. Chef David welcomed everyone warmly and despite his leg being in a brace from a recent surgical procedure,  he still had loads of energy and enthusiasm.  Pre-pasta making started with prosecco and delicious appetizers.  My kind of cooking class!

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Donning our aprons, our stations were already set up – ingredients were laid out and pre-measured.  He told us the portions so we would know for the future and showed us how to mix the two main ingredients.  While there is pasta made with egg, we made the lightest and easiest kind which consists of only two ingredients.  It all starts with a little bit of flour and a little bit of water.

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After we mixed and lightly kneaded our dough – it was wrapped in plastic and set aside for about 15 minutes which allowed us to have a second round of prosecco.

When the dough was ready, Chef David showed us how to use the wooden rolling pin to initially roll out the pasta and then using a hand cranked pasta machine – we rolled the pasta out another 3-4 times until it was quite long and thin.

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With a knife we cut off pieces and rolled between our hands.  Here’s the result – our handmade pici pasta – Marchigiano style.

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The sauce he chose was deceptively simple – olive oil, garlic, zucchini flowers, sausage and saffron which the pici pasta was then mixed into.  In a smaller pan, Chef David’s wife Barbara made a vegetarian version for me without sausage.  It was absolutely delicious!

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Afterward, we ate our pasta which was incredibly light and flavorful and enjoyed some glasses of wine and camaraderie with our fellow students.  The weather was a bit cold to sit out on the terrace, but I can imagine in the spring and summer what a lovely evening it would be to enjoy the fruits of our labor al fresco.

For more information on this pasta making course with Chef David, contact Walks of Italy.

23 March 2015
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