HostelLife: Conversations with guests – Devin

Devin was looking for directions to the Stadio Olimpico for tonight’s football/soccer match between AS Roma and Real Madrid.  She asked if our manager Yuli and I wanted to join her.  “My boss owns the team,” she said.  And “conversations with guests” nr. 2 followed….

17 February 2016

Winter in Rome 2016

HostelLife: Conversations with guests – Jordan

The other day, while listening to a podcast, I thought it might be a good idea to start recording bits and pieces from the people I meet here at The Beehive and the unique conversations that can often take place.  I hadn’t really committed to it until the other morning.

To set the scene:  guy comes in with a backpack asking if he can eat in the cafe even though he’s not a guest.  He’s vegan and just found us online.  He heads down for breakfast and when he returns to the reception, he asks if he can leave his bag here for a while. I asked how long a while might be and he said he needs it stored for a few days.  I said I can store it until the evening, but that if he wants to hold it longer, he should check out the checked luggage at Termini.

A bit curious, I ask where he’s staying and he responds that he’ll be in a sleeping bag in front of St. Peter’s.

“Pause,” I said.  “Mind if I record your answer?”

What follows is the first “episode” of Conversations with Guests.


15 February 2016

Day trips from Rome: Orvieto


If you want to experience small town life in Italy that’s a quick and easy distance from Rome without needing to rent a car – I highly recommend visiting the medieval hill town of Orvieto. Orvieto is easily reachable by train from Rome’s Termini train station and depending on the train takes 50 minutes to an hour & twenty minutes to reach.

Orvieto sits up on a rock which when coming from Rome you can’t really see from the train.  As you exit the station at Orvieto, cross the piazza and take the funicular up into town.  The original funicular started running in 1888 and used a water powered system.  The ride up is a smooth and effortless 2 minute climb up the side of the rock past people’s homes, olive groves and vineyards.

Exiting the funicular station, you can walk up Corso Cavour one of the main streets located directly in front you and be in the town’s center in about 10 minutes.  Or you can jump on the A bus that takes you to the front of the Duomo – Orvieto’s cathedral –  in less than 5 minutes.


Many Romans come to Orvieto on the weekend to stroll around the town and have a nice lunch.  Orvieto is in the region of Umbria and has loads of great restaurants serving local, regional cuisine.  Cinghiale (wild boar), truffles, umbrichelli (a thick spaghetti-type pasta made with flour & water) and the Orvieto Classico – a dry white wine, are typical specialties of the area.

There are a lot of very good restaurants in Orvieto. Our family’s favorite is Trattoria del Moro-Aronne.  This family owned and run restaurant is very popular in the guidebooks so usually crowded with visitors, but they have not lost their integrity as some places that get popular do – their food is great.  When eggplant is in season go for the polpette di melanzane (eggplant patties)  and their roasted potatoes.  Their nidi di rondine with pecorino and honey is a cheese-lovers delight (warning – sweet & rich, but oh so good) and they make a fantastic porcini mushroom/truffle pasta dish. The owners, Cristian and his mother Rolanda are super nice and friendly.  Bistrotters is owned and run by Emiliano & Ilaria who took over a long-standing restaurant that had seen better days and transformed it into this stylish yet casual spot.  The staff are super friendly and they have a large outdoor dining area with good pizzas, pastas and great wine.  Trattoria del Orso is the two-man operation of Ciro and Gabriele. Ciro will explain the day’s dishes and Gabriele cooks in the kitchen.  I particularly like their pasta dish with mushroom and truffles and they have some excellent meat dishes (I’m told.  Being vegetarian, I have to trust the meat-eaters I know).  After your meal, ask Ciro for his latest digestivo.  They make their own liqueurs out of natural ingredients such as bay leaf and other plants.  A bit hidden away is Mezzaluna if you are looking for a quick bite to eat with local grumpy ambiance.  The owner is a bit gruff, but does serve up what my daughters consider some of the best carbonara they’ve ever eaten and the price is right.

If you’re looking for a place to have a coffee try FEBO, Via G. Michelangeli a cute bar in town on the oh so quiet and quaint Michelangeli street.  If you want outdoor eating and people watching,  Caffe Cavour or Barrique are the place to be both located on Orvieto’s main street, Corso Cavour.
For gelato head to Pasqualetti, the oldest ice cream vendor in town. They have two locations – via del Duomo, 10 and Piazza del Duomo, 14 (here in the summer there is outdoor seating located off to the side of the Duomo)


– the Duomo – €3 entrance fee
– Underground Orvieto tour – tickets bought at ticket office next to Tourist Information located in front of the duomo, tour departs every day at 11, 12:15, 16:00 and 17:15.
– Torre del Moro – €2.60 entrance fee, you can take an elevator to the 2nd floor, but then have to walk the rest of the way 200 or so steps up – so not recommended for people with heart conditions.  Great panoramic views of the entire town and its medieval layout as well as the surrounding countryside.  Be careful of your ears though as the clock sounds every quarter past the hour.
– Pozzo della Cava vs Pozzo di San Patrizio – these are two underground well systems that are heavily advertised throughout Orvieto – Pozzo di San Patrizio is the most interesting from a historical, engineering and architectural perspective – it’s located right near the funicular station.
Museo dell Opera del Duomo – Chiesa di Sant’Agostino, Piazza San Giovenale – This place is definitely off the beaten path in Orvieto and it’s a definite must-see.  It’s only one large room, but it holds these slightly large than life statues of the Apostles and two huge brass bells with intricate details that used to be housed in the Duomo before they removed sometime in the 19th century.
– Churches – there are many churches in Orvieto such as Sant’ Andrea church in Piazza della Repubblica with it’s 12 sided bell tower. The oldest church in Orvieto is San Giovenale built in its original state in 1004 – recently re-opened after years of renovation it has beautiful restored frescoes and is a simpler, humbler, but not less beautiful church – from the inside, I personally like this church better than the Duomo.  Nice views of the countryside from this vantage point and very quiet in this part of town as it is off the tourist path.
– Anello della Rupe (literally means “ring of the rock”) – there is a gorgeous walking trail that runs along the volcanic rock on which the town is built on.  It takes about 1 to 1.5 hours to circumnavigate the entire town on this trail, but you can do a shorter walk.  There are 5 entrances to get onto the trail so if you get tired you can get off it at various spots.  Just a few meters down from the town and you are in nature.  There’s an Etruscan necropolis, a little church built into the rock and just a pleasant walk – some steep hills so a bit of a workout too.  I usually enter on the Palazzo Crispo entrance and walk clockwise and exit at the Porta Vivaria entrance.  There are gorgeous views of the countryside from this section of the path (including views of the 12th century Abbey of San Severo now a very nice hotel called La Badia)  Near the Porta Vivaria exit is where you’ll find the necropolis.
– evening passeggiata – cozy up to a coffee bar like Barrique (in coffee bars above) with seating outside and enjoy a glass of wine or prosecco or an aperol spritz and people watch before taking the evening stroll with all the residents of Orvieto who go up and down the 2 main drags – Corso Cavour and via dell Duomo each evening. The residents here take their evening passeggiata very seriously and everyone comes out in full force.  Only very bad weather will keep people inside.
– outdoor market at Piazza del Popolo  – Thursday and Saturday mornings – best place to get vegetables, fruit, cheese, etc. and inexpensive clothes and household goods.
– theatre performance at Teatro Mancinelli on Corso Cavour.  It’s a gorgeous little theatre built in the 1800’s.  You can stop by the theatre and see what’s taking place while you’re there – they often have posters outside and the ticket office is to the right if you are facing it.  They also have a pretty cafe open all day.
Federico Badia – leather goods – this young Roman cobbler moved to Orvieto and is continuing an artisan tradition that unfortunately is disappearing in Italy, but he’s made a success of it with his energy, enthusiasm and love for his craft.  Here you’ll find handmade and custom made shoes, handbags, wallets, belts, etc. Steve wrote a blog post and made a short video about him.
Orogami – original, unique and beautiful handmade jewelry by master jewelers Massimo and Tiziana – the nicest and friendliest couple who will happily answer any questions you might have about the items in their shop.  They have a range of pieces from simple and affordable to more intricate and expensive pieces.  They can also work on custom designs.
L’Orvietan – via del Duomo – don’t know the number, but it’s on the right side as you are going towards the Duomo – this shop has all kinds of beautifully made and well-sourced products all made in Orvieto.  The owner of the shop, Lamberto (if you see bald-headed man with a great smile and kind eyes behind the counter, that’s him) is an artisan papermaker who also has a paper workshop near the Duomo.
il Crogiolo – via dei Magoni, 7 –  beautiful handwoven scarves, hats, linens, etc.  You’ll find the owner Maria Gagliano usually working on the loom in her shop.
Ceramicarte – via dell Duomo, 42 – unusual handmade, artisan ceramics by Nadia (there is usually her dog Briciola outside).
Mastropaolo – Piazza dell Duomo, 36 – artistic handmade ceramics – both Ceramicarte above and Mastropaolo are a few of the authentically Orvietan artisans.  Many of the look-alike places on via dell Duomo are not handmade and are shipped in from southern Italy.Ceramiche Orvietane Difusari Giorgio – Corso Cavour, 431 – traditional artisan Umbrian ceramics

Dolceamaro – Corso Cavour, 78 – a chocolate shop with artisan handmade chocolates and cookies and in the winter – their excellent hot chocolate and in the summer, their gelato.

La Loggia – Corso Cavour, 129 – wine shop

Enoteca al Duomo – Corso Cavour 51 near Torre del Moro  – wine shop owned by friends of ours who also have a location at the Duomo and owners of the Bistrotters restaurant mentioned previously.

I highly recommend these two places if you decide to make Orvieto more than just a day trip.
B&B Ripa Medici and B&B Sant’ Angelo 42 



30 October 2015

Wine and olive oil tours near Rome


When you’re in the midst of the chaos of an urban city center like Rome, it’s difficult to imagine that just a few kilometers out of town you’ll find a rural idyll with green hills, rolling green pastures, olive trees, grapevines, sheep and horses.  Yet just 40 minutes by train north of Rome is a beautiful area called Sabina that easily rivals Tuscany and Umbria for its green and natural beauty.

I used to take horseback riding lessons in the Sabina area, but when I was pregnant with our third child, I was told very sternly by my midwife that horseback riding and pregnancy do not mix.  Unfortunately, I never did go back to my lessons, but recently, thanks to our friends at Convivio Rome, I have been spending time in the area again.


Our excellent hosts and tour leaders, Sally and Guido.

Convivio Rome is small tour company run by Sally Ransom and Guido Santi, an Australian-Italian couple who offer cooking tours out of their home in the small medieval town of Toffia as well as wine and olive oil tours of the surrounding Sabine countryside.  They were kind enough to invite me first on an olive oil tour last year and then a wine tour a year later this past April.



The only way to see this area is by car and Sally and Guido meet and pick you up in their own vehicle at the Fara Sabina-Montelibretti train station located 40 minutes from Rome’s Tiburtina station.  The countryside here like many parts of Italy is agricultural and there are orchards and vineyards a plenty.

The area of Sabina has been cultivating olives and making olive oil for thousands of years. In fact one of the oldest and largest olive trees in Europe, “l’Olivone” is located in this area and has been dated as being over 2,000 years old!

The olive oil from the Sabina are is one of the few olive oils to earn the DOP label (protected designation of origin) and many consider the olive oil here to be some of the finest in Italy.


Wine is equally important to the area and its cultivation started with the Etruscans in the area back in 800BC. We visited the Tenuta of Santa Lucia owned by the Colantuono family who have been wine producers in the Abruzzo region for 50 years and who bought the current vineyard in the Sabina area 10 years ago.


They are small producers, but their wine is exported as far away as the US and Japan.  The grapes they grow are Malvasia, Falanghina, Pecorino, Syrah, Merlot, Montepulciano and Sauvignon.


We spent the day following the wine-making process with Massimo, a young oenologist, who explained in depth the scientific and technical aspects of wine production.  Then we had a few tastings – a white and a red, along with some bruschetta and local oil.

Sally and Guido then took us to the nearby tiny borgo of Farfa, home of the Abbazia di Farfa (Farfa Abbey) and to Benedictine monks since the 600s.  The borgo is small and seemingly perfect with an eclectic mix of people – I’ve seen tai chi practitioners to yogis to teenagers playing football in the local park in town.


There are only a handful of shops and places to eat including a place called i 4 Monaci where Sally & Guido took us for a light snack lunch and more local wine.  This eclectic shop specializes in funky artisan products as well as many organic Italian skin care products and they sell an incredible homemade dark chocolate with hazelnut and pistachio.


The eclectic shop of i 4 Monaci.

A 3 hour tour turned into 4, but Sally and Guido were very patient and drove us to the train station afterward.  Personally it was very gratifying to see visitors to Italy getting off the tourist path and I had a wonderful time with a diverse group of people who by the end had developed a camaraderie after a fun day together.


If you have some time while in Rome, but don’t have a car, just contact Convivio Rome.  Their tours are very reasonably priced and getting out to the Sabina countryside is easy and hassle-free.  Wine and olive oil are inherent parts of Italian culture and are revered worldwide –  it’s worthwhile taking the time to learn more about them while you’re here.

16 May 2015
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