Running Rome – a personal account of running the Rome Marathon

a guest post & photos by Annika Blyckertz

11357518_103402846667186_95173999_nMy friend Annika is a salon owner in her mid-thirties from Gävle, Sweden – married with a 15 year old son.  She’s a casual runner who ran the Rome marathon in 2014.  For all the most up to date information about the 2016 Rome Marathon taking place on Sunday, 10 April please go to http://www.maratonadiroma.it  The site comes in various languages:  English, Spanish, French and German.

I came to Rome on Friday and the marathon is on Sunday. Coming from Sweden, it was quick and easy for me to jump over to Rome for a few days and I had already been to Rome before.  However, if you are coming from very far away and/or have never been to Rome and plan on incorporating some sight seeing into your time here, I would highly recommend giving yourself much more time than just a long weekend.

1024px-Le_Palazzo_dei_Congressi_(EUR,_Rome)_(5904092951)

Palazzo dei Congressi in the EUR – photo by Magnus Manske

One or two days before the marathon you have to pick up your race packet at The Marathon Village which is at a place called the Palazzo dei Congressi.  By public transit you take the blue line metro/Line B to the EUR Fermi stop.  It was my first time on the Rome metro and I was traveling alone, but it was very easy and even though you have to walk a few blocks from the station once you arrive it’s easy to find – just follow the crowd!

Saturday the day before the marathon is best spent eating and SLOWLY and MODERATELY strolling around. You will want well rested legs on Marathon Day, and you need to eat more than usual, but still easily digested food.  I went to a local restaurant near The Beehive for dinner the night before.  I had some amazing pasta alla gricia – a Roman pasta dish, usually rigatoni or spaghetti, made with guanciale (pork cheek), pecorino romano and pepper – which turned out to be perfect fuel.  An early night and as much sleep as possible is definitely recommended.

I stayed at The Beehive which was an excellent decision thanks to it being so close to Termini (among all of the other reasons). Marathon start time was at 9:00am, but you have to get there earlier around 8:00am to leave your bag and anything else you don’t want to run with. I left The Beehive at around 7.30am.  From there it’s a short walk to Termini to take the metro to the Colosseum – again follow the crowds.

Everyone is obligated to bring their race packet that you must pick up at the Marathon Village.  For Rome’s marathon, you’re given a backpack which is the only bag you are allowed to drop off in the start area and of course all the runners wear running clothes and various cover-ups some of which are pretty hilarious.  I have never seen so many people dressed in garbage bags before.  The metro was free for runners that day, and there are lots of people – literally thousands. It’s a special feeling to be part of an international community consisting of total strangers, but everybody is so friendly and helpful and there is this immediate feeling of belonging. It is difficult to explain until you experience it yourself.

On the metro I was a bit confused about where to get off because I had read something about one of the exits being closed off, but all I had to do was stand there and look confused for some of the other runners to say that no, we were to stay on the train for another two stops. We were all going to the same place, all having the same goal. There’s no competition, only friendliness and community.

Bags are dropped off at several trucks parked in a long row, it’s easy to find once you get into the start area, but depending on your bib number you may have to walk quite far from the drop off truck to the start line, so get there early to give yourself enough time. This is where the garbage bags I thought were so funny come in handy; put one of them on top of your running outfit and it will keep you surprisingly warm – and dry, if it is raining. It is also recommended to wear an old sweater that you can simply discard when you get too warm – it is important to stay warm until you start running!

Drink water, eat a banana, slowly walk towards the starting line. There are toilets close to the start, they were in multiple rows which weren’t easily seen so there were many of us waiting in line for the first row while there were many empty booths in the rows behind!

Once all of that is done you need to get to your corral, then wait to hear The Final Countdown (yay Sweden!) and then the gun goes off and everybody starts clapping.  The tears…

11376336_1849272701964920_1933100271_n

After that, you’re in it for the long haul.  You really have no choice, but to follow the mass of people as they proceed towards the starting line and before you know it you will have crossed it. Crazy feeling. Tears again. When you have crossed that line there’s no going back, you just have to keep going until you reach the finish line 42,195 meters later. CRAZY. And hilarious. God I laughed. Then I stopped after ten meters because I realized that I had forgotten to start my music. Then after another 100m to take the sweater off. More laughter. I think was laughing for the first 10k.

You’ll find lots and lots of supporters and people watching and cheering at the start, but pretty soon you go into more residential areas and the crowds thin out. You run through areas not often seen by tourists, which is great!  For example, on past trips to Rome I had never seen the pyramid of Rome (Pyramid of Cestius). I remember the course as being relatively flat – surprisingly so for a city built on seven hills, but I can’t remember any super steep hills and the roads you run on are generally well maintained (much better than in Florence’s marathon, but that’s another post!).

Quite a large part of the course is on cobblestones, which as you can imagine is tough on the legs, but then again those are the parts where you get to see famous monuments and you will also have a larger audience cheering you on which makes up for it.  Running up towards St Peter’s basilica is spectacular – more tears!

11352263_823216761061443_994164112_n

There are lots of spectators all the way in the center (here are some tips for spectators here and I cannot stress enough how helpful it is to have people cheering you on and clapping even if you know they’re really there to see somebody else.  So if you were one of those spectators in 2014 – thank you!  At Piazza Navona I found my good friend, Nicki, who was there to see me, or rather she found me. Tears again.  I was so crazy tired at that point (36 km in or so), but having her support really made all the difference.

Keep going, run through the pain, don’t forget to drink at the stations and those wet sponges are fantastic to clear your mind. Look up and see the Spanish Steps when you run by because I didn’t!

Before you know it, you can see the Colosseum in the distance, and the end is near, and you sprint the best you can, there’s no point in saving any energy by then, just run. Run run run, and cross that finish line, raise your hands if you still have any juice in you (I only had enough to get them halfway up), then go ahead and collapse once you have your medal.

11374479_1442881872683505_214649047_n

After you have collapsed and gotten back up on your feet, hobble on as best you can. It’s amazing how you can run for hours and hours and then once you stop running you can’t even walk. There are refreshments and massage tents (I hid in one when the sky burst open) that you pass on your way back to the truck where you left your bag. Once there, put on some cover-ups and if possible at least change your shirt. Nobody cares if you strip down to your underwear in the middle of the crowd, promise.  My friend, Nicki and I went straight to the metro after that. Warning:  you have to go down a few stairs to get to the metro and it’s not pretty.

Back to your accommodation, shower (BEST SHOWER IN THE WORLD), get dressed, collapse on the bed for ten minutes until your stomach demands that you get food. Eat, drink, then be asleep like a baby by 9:00pm.

It was my first marathon so I didn’t have much to compare it to, but I have run in the Stockholm and Florence marathons since then and I must say that Rome will always be special. I thought it was very well organized (yes, Stockholm was better but not as much as many might think) and so much fun, definitely one of the best days in my life despite all the pain – lots of blisters, ouch! The course was great; some boring passages but all marathons have those. Extra bonus for being a 1 lap course (Stockholm is 2 laps) with lots and lots to see along the way thanks to beautiful Rome being Rome.

22 February 2016

HostelLife: Conversations with guests – Devin

Devin was looking for directions to the Stadio Olimpico for tonight’s football/soccer match between AS Roma and Real Madrid.  She asked if our manager Yuli and I wanted to join her.  “My boss owns the team,” she said.  And “conversations with guests” nr. 2 followed….

17 February 2016

Winter in Rome 2016

HostelLife: Conversations with guests – Jordan

The other day, while listening to a podcast, I thought it might be a good idea to start recording bits and pieces from the people I meet here at The Beehive and the unique conversations that can often take place.  I hadn’t really committed to it until the other morning.

To set the scene:  guy comes in with a backpack asking if he can eat in the cafe even though he’s not a guest.  He’s vegan and just found us online.  He heads down for breakfast and when he returns to the reception, he asks if he can leave his bag here for a while. I asked how long a while might be and he said he needs it stored for a few days.  I said I can store it until the evening, but that if he wants to hold it longer, he should check out the checked luggage at Termini.

A bit curious, I ask where he’s staying and he responds that he’ll be in a sleeping bag in front of St. Peter’s.

“Pause,” I said.  “Mind if I record your answer?”

What follows is the first “episode” of Conversations with Guests.

 

15 February 2016

Day trips from Rome: Orvieto

IMG_1413.JPG

If you want to experience small town life in Italy that’s a quick and easy distance from Rome without needing to rent a car – I highly recommend visiting the medieval hill town of Orvieto. Orvieto is easily reachable by train from Rome’s Termini train station and depending on the train takes 50 minutes to an hour & twenty minutes to reach.

Orvieto sits up on a rock which when coming from Rome you can’t really see from the train.  As you exit the station at Orvieto, cross the piazza and take the funicular up into town.  The original funicular started running in 1888 and used a water powered system.  The ride up is a smooth and effortless 2 minute climb up the side of the rock past people’s homes, olive groves and vineyards.

Exiting the funicular station, you can walk up Corso Cavour one of the main streets located directly in front you and be in the town’s center in about 10 minutes.  Or you can jump on the A bus that takes you to the front of the Duomo – Orvieto’s cathedral –  in less than 5 minutes.

IMG_1405

Many Romans come to Orvieto on the weekend to stroll around the town and have a nice lunch.  Orvieto is in the region of Umbria and has loads of great restaurants serving local, regional cuisine.  Cinghiale (wild boar), truffles, umbrichelli (a thick spaghetti-type pasta made with flour & water) and the Orvieto Classico – a dry white wine, are typical specialties of the area.

There are a lot of very good restaurants in Orvieto. Our family’s favorite is Trattoria del Moro-Aronne.  This family owned and run restaurant is very popular in the guidebooks so usually crowded with visitors, but they have not lost their integrity as some places that get popular do – their food is great.  When eggplant is in season go for the polpette di melanzane (eggplant patties)  and their roasted potatoes.  Their nidi di rondine with pecorino and honey is a cheese-lovers delight (warning – sweet & rich, but oh so good) and they make a fantastic porcini mushroom/truffle pasta dish. The owners, Cristian and his mother Rolanda are super nice and friendly.  Bistrotters is owned and run by Emiliano & Ilaria who took over a long-standing restaurant that had seen better days and transformed it into this stylish yet casual spot.  The staff are super friendly and they have a large outdoor dining area with good pizzas, pastas and great wine.  Trattoria del Orso is the two-man operation of Ciro and Gabriele. Ciro will explain the day’s dishes and Gabriele cooks in the kitchen.  I particularly like their pasta dish with mushroom and truffles and they have some excellent meat dishes (I’m told.  Being vegetarian, I have to trust the meat-eaters I know).  After your meal, ask Ciro for his latest digestivo.  They make their own liqueurs out of natural ingredients such as bay leaf and other plants.  A bit hidden away is Mezzaluna if you are looking for a quick bite to eat with local grumpy ambiance.  The owner is a bit gruff, but does serve up what my daughters consider some of the best carbonara they’ve ever eaten and the price is right.

If you’re looking for a place to have a coffee try FEBO, Via G. Michelangeli a cute bar in town on the oh so quiet and quaint Michelangeli street.  If you want outdoor eating and people watching,  Caffe Cavour or Barrique are the place to be both located on Orvieto’s main street, Corso Cavour.
For gelato head to Pasqualetti, the oldest ice cream vendor in town. They have two locations – via del Duomo, 10 and Piazza del Duomo, 14 (here in the summer there is outdoor seating located off to the side of the Duomo)

THINGS TO SEE & DO:

– the Duomo – €3 entrance fee
– Underground Orvieto tour – tickets bought at ticket office next to Tourist Information located in front of the duomo, tour departs every day at 11, 12:15, 16:00 and 17:15.
– Torre del Moro – €2.60 entrance fee, you can take an elevator to the 2nd floor, but then have to walk the rest of the way 200 or so steps up – so not recommended for people with heart conditions.  Great panoramic views of the entire town and its medieval layout as well as the surrounding countryside.  Be careful of your ears though as the clock sounds every quarter past the hour.
– Pozzo della Cava vs Pozzo di San Patrizio – these are two underground well systems that are heavily advertised throughout Orvieto – Pozzo di San Patrizio is the most interesting from a historical, engineering and architectural perspective – it’s located right near the funicular station.
Museo dell Opera del Duomo – Chiesa di Sant’Agostino, Piazza San Giovenale – This place is definitely off the beaten path in Orvieto and it’s a definite must-see.  It’s only one large room, but it holds these slightly large than life statues of the Apostles and two huge brass bells with intricate details that used to be housed in the Duomo before they removed sometime in the 19th century.
– Churches – there are many churches in Orvieto such as Sant’ Andrea church in Piazza della Repubblica with it’s 12 sided bell tower. The oldest church in Orvieto is San Giovenale built in its original state in 1004 – recently re-opened after years of renovation it has beautiful restored frescoes and is a simpler, humbler, but not less beautiful church – from the inside, I personally like this church better than the Duomo.  Nice views of the countryside from this vantage point and very quiet in this part of town as it is off the tourist path.
– Anello della Rupe (literally means “ring of the rock”) – there is a gorgeous walking trail that runs along the volcanic rock on which the town is built on.  It takes about 1 to 1.5 hours to circumnavigate the entire town on this trail, but you can do a shorter walk.  There are 5 entrances to get onto the trail so if you get tired you can get off it at various spots.  Just a few meters down from the town and you are in nature.  There’s an Etruscan necropolis, a little church built into the rock and just a pleasant walk – some steep hills so a bit of a workout too.  I usually enter on the Palazzo Crispo entrance and walk clockwise and exit at the Porta Vivaria entrance.  There are gorgeous views of the countryside from this section of the path (including views of the 12th century Abbey of San Severo now a very nice hotel called La Badia)  Near the Porta Vivaria exit is where you’ll find the necropolis.
– evening passeggiata – cozy up to a coffee bar like Barrique (in coffee bars above) with seating outside and enjoy a glass of wine or prosecco or an aperol spritz and people watch before taking the evening stroll with all the residents of Orvieto who go up and down the 2 main drags – Corso Cavour and via dell Duomo each evening. The residents here take their evening passeggiata very seriously and everyone comes out in full force.  Only very bad weather will keep people inside.
– outdoor market at Piazza del Popolo  – Thursday and Saturday mornings – best place to get vegetables, fruit, cheese, etc. and inexpensive clothes and household goods.
– theatre performance at Teatro Mancinelli on Corso Cavour.  It’s a gorgeous little theatre built in the 1800’s.  You can stop by the theatre and see what’s taking place while you’re there – they often have posters outside and the ticket office is to the right if you are facing it.  They also have a pretty cafe open all day.
IMG_1302
SHOPPING:
Federico Badia – leather goods – this young Roman cobbler moved to Orvieto and is continuing an artisan tradition that unfortunately is disappearing in Italy, but he’s made a success of it with his energy, enthusiasm and love for his craft.  Here you’ll find handmade and custom made shoes, handbags, wallets, belts, etc. Steve wrote a blog post and made a short video about him.
Orogami – original, unique and beautiful handmade jewelry by master jewelers Massimo and Tiziana – the nicest and friendliest couple who will happily answer any questions you might have about the items in their shop.  They have a range of pieces from simple and affordable to more intricate and expensive pieces.  They can also work on custom designs.
L’Orvietan – via del Duomo – don’t know the number, but it’s on the right side as you are going towards the Duomo – this shop has all kinds of beautifully made and well-sourced products all made in Orvieto.  The owner of the shop, Lamberto (if you see bald-headed man with a great smile and kind eyes behind the counter, that’s him) is an artisan papermaker who also has a paper workshop near the Duomo.
il Crogiolo – via dei Magoni, 7 –  beautiful handwoven scarves, hats, linens, etc.  You’ll find the owner Maria Gagliano usually working on the loom in her shop.
Ceramicarte – via dell Duomo, 42 – unusual handmade, artisan ceramics by Nadia (there is usually her dog Briciola outside).
Mastropaolo – Piazza dell Duomo, 36 – artistic handmade ceramics – both Ceramicarte above and Mastropaolo are a few of the authentically Orvietan artisans.  Many of the look-alike places on via dell Duomo are not handmade and are shipped in from southern Italy.Ceramiche Orvietane Difusari Giorgio – Corso Cavour, 431 – traditional artisan Umbrian ceramics

Dolceamaro – Corso Cavour, 78 – a chocolate shop with artisan handmade chocolates and cookies and in the winter – their excellent hot chocolate and in the summer, their gelato.

La Loggia – Corso Cavour, 129 – wine shop

Enoteca al Duomo – Corso Cavour 51 near Torre del Moro  – wine shop owned by friends of ours who also have a location at the Duomo and owners of the Bistrotters restaurant mentioned previously.

PLACES TO STAY:
I highly recommend these two places if you decide to make Orvieto more than just a day trip.
B&B Ripa Medici and B&B Sant’ Angelo 42 

 

 

30 October 2015
1 2 3 4 5 6 11